Wrangler Tailgate. Since picnickers in 1869 ate food from buckboards of horse-drawn wagons, Americans have loved tailgating. Now the party goes global, with pulled lamb from a wood-burning smoker at Odys & Penelope in L.A. Honey Soy Chicken Wings on skewers and Brisket Tacos, make magisterial main dishes. True global tailgating, with a Peruvian potato salad with chili-spiked cheese sauce.